Sunday, September 30, 2012

Day 25 ( A Chill out Day) In the Mountain View RV Park in Hemet, CA  -0- miles Total still = 5357.3
We decided to take what my hiking/biking son would call a zero day (no miles).  This was our first non-KOA park ( I couldn't call it a campground).  It was just out of the center of the town but relatively quiet (especially as compared to Pomona).  In the morning, we stayed inside pretty much enjoying the A/C as the outside Temp was approaching 100 (It got to about 103 in the afternoon).  I caught up on my blog posts and Jan did some knitting and reading. In the afternoon I watched the end of the Ryder Cup on TV (sad ending for the U.S.)  Dave's brother came over to visit after lunch and after the golf match we went over to his camper to join them.  In the evening after supper we did some trip planning and decided on our route for the next day or so.

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Day 24 (a very short Travel Day) Pomona, CA - Hemet,CA 65.7 miles New Total = 5,357.3 miles

Today we drove a short distance East of LA to visit Dave's brother who lives in Homeland, CA.  Dave's brother, Albert is younger by 7 years from Dave, also grew up in Franklin, ME ( just outside of Ellsworth which is just North of Bar Harbor) and hasn't lost his slow ME way of talking and his sense of humor. We had a great morning of reminiscing and learning a bit more about each other. (we had met briefly at Dave's surprise 75th Birthday 4 years before)  Albert and his wife moved here about a half dozen years ago to take on the caregiver responsibilities for his wife's mother.  They both live in an over 55 community in Homeland which is about 80-90 miles east of downtown LA.
We had lunch at a buffet restaurant in Hemet (about 6-7 miles east) and believe me they didn't make any money on us!  After lunch we stopped by Albert's Mother-in-Law's house and spent an hour or so talking with his wife Sharon and her mother, and then we moved on to our campground in Hemet. (our first non-KOA on the trip).

Jean, Albert, Sharon & dave

Friday, September 28, 2012

Day 23 ( A traveling day) Pismo Beach, CA - Pomona, CA 222 miles  New total = 5,291.6 miles
We had arrived pretty late in the day yesterday (about 6:30 PM) and slept in a little in the morning.  Left about 9 AM and headed through the hills toward LA.
Before we got into the "city", we did view an area of vineyards

The roads soon became freeways and we just got into the groove and melded in with SoCal traffic.  Usually 3-5 lanes quite full.  We had chosen a campground quite in the city as we were scheduled to meet up with Jean's brother and his wife who live in N. Hollywood.  Our campground turned out to be right beside the LA Fairplex (fairgrounds).  Also housed there was an airport, and a drag strip.  The fair was in process and a rock concert was the bonus for the night.  Needless to say our evening did not lack any background sounds.  Michael and Dee joined us at the campground about 7:30 PM and we had a great cookout of burgers by mstr. chef David, salad by Dee and strawberry shortcake for dessert by Jan. We exchanged childhood memories and stories of travel until quite late and had no trouble falling asleep despite the ongoing concert.
Michael, Jean, Dave & Dee


Thursday, September 27, 2012

Day 22 (A Traveling Day) Petaluma - Pismo Beach 334.1 miles New Total = 5,069.6 miles
Awoke to the aroma of "Dairy -air". We were camped next to a cow pasture!
We had a treat this morning as we were to tour a friend's winery.  We arrived at the facility at about 8:30 AM.  This was not a vineyard, but a place where grapes, procured from various vineyards, were processed into wine.  Previously they produced as much as 18,000 cases a year, but currently are producing only about 1800.  No it's not the economy, but by choice.  They have chosen to become what I might call a "boutique" winery producing a high end totally organic product with very selective grapes.  We had a wonderfully educational and enjoyable discussion with Kevin Kelley, the winemaker, had a sampling of raw grape juice from a batch of Pinot Noir grapes recently squeezed, but before fermentation (no alcohol at this point).

We left the winery about 9:45 and headed down the 101 toward San Francisco.  About 10:30 we were crossing the Golden gate Bridge ( I think).  The bridge was so enclosed in fog that as we reached the top we could see barely 3 cars ahead.
entering the bridge span









approaching the top







After the bridge we moved back on to Rte 1 and wound our way down the coast.
At lunch, at a pull-of by the ocean, we watched surfers "catching the waves".

 In the afternoon we entered a significant agricultural area, with many, many square miles of gardens in various stages of maturity.  Some being readied for planting, some being weeded and some being picked.  The crops were not easily identifiable.  In one area where fields were being prepped, it looked like small lakes, but as we got closer, we saw it was acres of ground covered with black plastic reflecting the sun.
a sea of pasltic

picking time















Our last treat of the day was a beach covered with elephant seals.  We were told they come to this beach twice a year. They come here (about 4 miles South of The Hearst Castle near Cambria) in the winter to for a few months to give birth and breed, and spend a few weeks in the summer molting & resting, but the seals actually live most of their lives deep in the sea. There were many playing in the surf, some young males sparring but most were sleeping on the beach.  There were hundreds on this small section of beach and we later saw that other section of beach further on were also covered.  For more info on these fascinating creatures, visit www.elephantseal.org


Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Day 21 (Another Travel Day)  Eureka, CA - Petaluma, CA 275.4 miles New Total 4753.5 miles
Another foggy morning.  Still traveling on Rte 101 fairly close to the coast. In the morning we traveled through another Redwood forest in Humboldt State Park.

After going through the Avenue of the Giants ( a much commercialized section --a real tourist trap, spoiled by signs, power lines, and road signs.) we switched onto Rte 1, which goes closer to the coast.  The road from 101 to 1 was really hairy, and stressful as we wound up and down the coastal mountains.  There must have been a hundred tight slow (supposed to be) corners.  and Dave had a tough time staying with me. I said to Jan (during one of my more civil moments) "this would make a sidewinder sick".

At Anchor Bay, we actually saw the sun for a while in the afternoon.










At one point along the shore we had stopped to admire the rocky shoreline and we saw a small bunch of goats grazing.  I tried to call them by imitating their call, but they didn't pay any attention.  Then the "old billy goat" traveling with me tried.  His call was so irritating they popped their heads right up to see what was that terrible noise.  So we got some good pictures then.


 








As the day wore down we started to see many more large cattle ranches again with barns that seemed to go on forever.

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Day 20 ( A travel day ) North Bend, OR - Eureka, CA 168.9 miles New Total = 4,478.1 miles
Started the day again with fog.  It's been this way since we arrived in WA and started down the coast.

Evidence of the importance of logging still visible. Saw our first cranberry bogs & Ocean Spray sign.  The coastline continues to be breathtaking, so different than the sandy beaches of the East.  The Salmon are running and as we pass the rivers and bays, there are multitudes of small boats as everyone wants salmon for their freezer. Passed the highest bridge in OR this morning (345'). (sorry no picture). Passed into CA at about 11:30 AM & 9955 on my odometer. Stopped at Wilson cove along the ocean for lunch.  Took a 30 mile side trip off of Rte 101through the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway.  Our first exposure to the giant Redwoods. Words cannot describe their immensity. Maybe a few pictures can.
That's Jan!







The camper is 20' for comparison.













At the end of the 30 mile drive through these redwood groves we stopped by the road to view a bull Elk and his harem feeding by the side of the road.  I gotta say, he's a better man than I, handling 20 females!

The Master

...and his Harem!

Monday, September 24, 2012

Day 19 ( another Travel day) Astoria, OR - North Bend, OR) 220.5 miles, New total = 4369.3 miles
After a free pancake breakfast, we left the campground and headed down the coast on Rte 101.  It was damp & foggy and the early ocean views were somewhat obscured.
early morning foggy coastline
At a number of roadside stops we were in awe of the power of the waves.  We saw sea lions and at Boiler Bay we were treated to 3-4 sightings of a couple of gray whales about 1000 yards off shore.  We would catch sight of their blow and then then would roll to the surface and end with a dive which put their flukes out of the water for our enjoyment.
sea lions at play


After lunch we stopped at Sea Lions Cave, the largest such cave in the US.  We took an elevator 200' down into the rock cliff inside the cave to view the ocean pouring in and unfortunately only one  single  sea lion on the rocks.  
The lone Sea Lion
The Sea Lion Cave
(The upper picture is the rock in the center of this photo)


At this time of year, which is after the sea lions have given birth and the young are growing quickly, they spend most of their time out to sea feeding and fattening up for the winter.
The rocky coast of Oregon has so many breathtaking shore line views, you could spend an eternity in awe of the sights, but alas we were committed to move on.
















As we neared the area of our new nights campground, the coastline changed to large sand dunes, which sometimes encroached right to the road.
Our campground in fact catered to ATV's and other off road vehicles which I gather were allowed on sections of the beach dunes.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Day 18 (A mostly travel day) Port  Angeles, WA - Astoria, OR  268.0 miles,  New Total 4,148.8 miles
 Our first stop after leaving probably our worst campground, was the Olympic National Park Visitor Center for maps & directions.  As this is primarily a wilderness park kept in its natural state, most of the access and activities are directed toward on foot activities.  Thusly we were relegated to viewing the Park and its natural beauty from the roads.  The Olympic Park contains mountains even higher than most of the Cascades, and this within merely a few miles from the Pacific on a peninsula between Puget Sound/Seattle and the open ocean.  We took the route down the Pacific side of the Park and then proceeded down the Washington coast.
Our first real view of the Pacific

Once you leave the Park boundaries it is obvious what is the major industry of Western Washington
 ( Forestry).  This was evident in the forested areas all along the ridges, the log piles, the mills and the logging trucks on the road.
     Rather than post a few pictures of this today, I am going to take the space and indulge your time in quoting a statement we found on a corner of the Park's main map which is meant to convey the official statement of wilderness protection.  I found this to be extremely meaningful and wanted to pass it on.  If you find it a little "tree huggerish" I apologize but this is something I likewise feel strongly about.
 
  "Wilderness is meant to protect forever the land's natural conditions, opportunities for solitude and primitive recreation, and scientific, educational,and historic values. In wilderness people can sense being a part of the whole community of life on Earth. Preserving wilderness shows restraint and humility and benefits generations that will follow us."

In the Olympic Peninsula Congress has designated over 1 million acres for protection under the 1964 Wilderness Act. This includes 95% in the Olympic National Forest.

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Day 17 (A travel Day) Winthrop, WA - Port Angeles, WA 241.7 miles. New Total miles 3880.8
We left Winthrop early and headed up into the Cascades.  Mountains were smoky but views were still spectacular.  Stopped at the Washington Overlook 5477' and spent a good 1/2 hour ogling the views.   The mountains must be much younger as the peaks were much sharper and less worn down by the eons of time.


























                                                      a video of Washington Pass

A few miles further on we crested Rainey Pass 4855'.  These were the most majestic mountains we had been through on the trip so far. As we came  down out of the mountains we passed Ross Dam & its power generating station.
Ross Dam Lake


As we approached the coast the land flattened out and the farms increased and we began to see one of Washington's primary industries logging and lumber production.
We arrived at the Ferry a little early so we had lunch on the beach on Whitby Island. Our ride on the ferry was enhanced by the fact that both Dave's and my motorhome were front and center so we had unobstructed views of the crossing to Port Townsend.

Our view out the front of the Ferry
 A short 30 miles after we docked brought us to our campground.





Friday, September 21, 2012

Day 16 ( A travel day) Newport, WA - Winthrop, WA  233.2 miles  new Total miles 3639.1 miles
Headed North out of Newport on Rte 20 again to take the scenic route through the Cascades.  When we were in Yellowstone we met a Swiss couple, who have a home in Colville, WA, who recommended this route highly.  The route moves along the Kootenai River for quite a while ( to within 40 miles of the Canadian Border) before turning West and South through the Selkirk Mountains.  At Kettle Falls we crossed the Columbia River. We then passed through the Kettle River Range through the Sherman Pass.  We had lunch at the overlook at 5587' above sea level.

 In Tonasket we saw our first WA apple orchards. We arrived at our KOA in Winthrop just before 4PM.  We quickly set up our campers and we then took a shuttle bus into the center of town.  Winthrop is sort of a tourist trap, but done nicely.  It looks like an old western mining town, and most of the buildings are very old. We walked the main street and ended up having dinner at Three Finger Jacks, a local bar & eatery.  The food was good and we all had a beer.










 While waiting for the shuttle to go back to the camp, we were graced with a visit by a Mule deer doe and her yearling who came wandering into the parking lot we were waiting in.  This was right in the middle of town.  They showed no anxiety or fear of us and wandered into a group of trees next to the back patio of one of the restaurants where they found an old apple tree and some windfalls on the ground.   It was then obvious to us that this wasn't their first visit to this spot.  Traffic of cars, campers,and motorcycles was pretty steady, but this didn't deter her & her youngster from slowly walking across the Main street into the dirt parking lot of a group of rental cabins across the street.  What a treat for us at the end of a great day!

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Day 15  (A Travel day)  West Glacier, MT to Newport, WA ( 243.1 miles )  New Total miles
( 3405.9 miles )
Started the day with a stop in Columbia Falls, Jiffy Lube, to have our oil changed and to the grocery store for vittles. Northeastern MT was quite rural with scattered ranches. (Example, Troy, MT population 953...one of the larger towns).  Entered Idaho at 12:24 Mountain Time and then changed our clocks to Pacific Time. Followed Rte 2 from MT all through Idaho, many miles along the Kootenai River
















Stopped for lunch at Bonner's Ferry Information Center.

 Now entered by bridge but the Ferry existed from 1864 until 1889 when the railroad came to town and built the first bridge. Bonner's Ferry lies at the southern end of the Selkirk Loop, a scenic roadway that wanders through Utah, Washington and British Columbia including three Indian reservations.  Our trip encompassed only 50 miles of the Utah panhandle.  We entered Washington mid afternoon our campground at Newport/Little Diamond Lake. Now our 11th state.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Day 14 (Sightseeing in Glazier Nat'l Park) zero miles, Total still
Took a Red Bus Tour into the Park.  They picked us up at the campground at about 9:00 AM.  We motored in a refurbished (by Ford) 1936 White Motors touring bus. Ford refurbished them free for the Park Service.

We motored along the right side of McDonald Lake to the Lodge, built in the early 1900's and then moved on to Trail of the Cedars Nature Trail.  It was about .8 mile and wound through a 500 year old forest of Red Cedars and Black Cottonwoods.






Giant Red Cedar








 It was so peaceful the feeling was almost spiritual. The creek which flowed through it was also very picturesque and had a number of small trout in the pools.
Mother Nature's Sulpture











Later we stopped at the southern end of the Lake for a photo opp.
View from South end of Lake McDonald

We didn't realize that the remainder of the western side of the Park was closed for annual road repairs.  The road closes due to weather by the end of October, so they only have from mid Sept. to then to complete all construction & repairs.
We returned to the campsite early, caught up on some laundry and other chores and finished the day with our 3rd campfire of the trip.

Warming our tootsies!


Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Day 13 (a travel day) Bozeman to West Glacier, MT  ( 336.7 miles)  new total miles ( 3162.8 )
Left Bozeman early in the smoke & haze.  The fires in the Grand Tetons and southern Utah are blowing into the southern Montana regions and all views are very smoky.
Outside of Bozeman





fires approaching Glacier











Flathead Lake
The drive west saw rolling pastures, active ranches in the distance and many abandoned homes near the highway. Crossed the Continental Divide again (elevation 6393) on the way  to Missoula where we stopped at the McKenzie River Pizza Co. for lunch.  (Craig and I had stopped there for lunch in 2004 when we drove to Seattle. I wore the t-shirt I bought back then).   North of Missoula the road took us east of Flathead Lake (almost 40 miles long) along the edge of the mountains.





 Most road signs were in both English & Native American (I believe Flathead - as this is their original tribal area - later the Salish & Kootenai migrated here from the south & east to escape their enemies the Blackfeet)).  The area also had many orchards of cherries & apples.

 As we got closer to Glacier the size of the mountains increased substantially as we were approaching the northern spine of the Rockies in the lower US.





Approaching Glacier


Monday, September 17, 2012

Day 12 (1/2 day sightseeing, 1/2 day travel) West loop of Yellowstone Nat'l Park - Bozeman, MT) (186) miles, new total (2826.5) miles
Left the camp at just after 8AM after another night below freezing. There was quite a fog and early views of the Lake were very restricted.  This made viewing at the various sulfur and hot springs, which populate the West side of the Park quite heavily, very difficult as steam/fog was rising off the water in all the pools.  You still quickly realize that the classical natural beauty of the East side is in sharp contrast to the uncommon vents from the bowels of the earth on the West.  Along the West side of the Park we crossed the Continental Divide 3 times.
Our first stop was at Kepler Cascades, a series of small waterfalls/cataracts. Mother Nature is quite a sculptor!

Our stop at Old Faithful although perfectly timed, (we walked up to it just as its eruption began) was less than spectacular as it only reached a height of roughly 30-40 feet instead of a daily average of  130'.  The next expected eruption was anywhere from 60-145 minutes so we moved on.
Old Faithful

Next we visited The Midway Geyser Basin, located adjacent to the Firehole River.  It contained the Excelsior Geyser, the Grand Prismatic Spring (Yellowstone's' largest hot spring), the Opal Pool and the Turquoise Pool.  These hot springs were alive with active bacteria that thrive in this high temperature/high acidity environment and contributed to the extremely colorful runoffs.










Grand Prismatic Spring


















Our next stop was the Norris Geyser Basin & Museum which contained a number of additional geysers  and a basin of hot springs, geysers, mud pots & steam vents  of over 10 acres.
Norris Geyser Basin



After this we moved along to find a roadside picnic spot to have lunch. We found a small one with tables next to a meadow and we were joined by a pair of friendly gray mountain jays.  One was friendly enough to eat out of my hand but the other was only bold enough to land on our table and eat from a plate.
Our friendly mountain Jay







Our last stop before exiting the Park at the North was Mammoth Hot Springs.  The spring was located quite high above the road and afforded a wonderful view from the road, although you could climb the hillside on a boardwalk and see it up closer.

Mammoth Hot Springs













We then traveled about 70 miles to Bozeman to our new camp for the night.